Monday 3 June 13 - Budapest

Budapest is not a city that I fell immediately in love with, exiting the train station on a busy intersection we were met not only with the noise of the traffic but the continual clatter of a pneumatic drill, as there was some huge road reconstruction works happening right outside the station. We had to walk just over 1 km to our accommodation and of course followed the main route with its continual traffic noise.

We got to our accommodation which is located on the corner of a bustling intersection in the Old Jewish Quarter also known as District VII or Erzsébetváros (Elisabeth-town). The dubious entrance with an entry phone system led us into a window-less lobby with a row of shabby post boxes and a flight of concrete stairs leading up. At the top of the stairs, things started to improve, as the stairs led onto an inner courtyard with terracotta-coloured floor tiles, around the courtyard were numerous arched entrances, each with its own brightly painted doors, looking up we could see two more floors with decorative wrought ironwork running round the balconies which gave access to many more arched entrances. This was once a block of residential appartments and the inner courtyard is an oasis of calm in this bustling city, it has character and a certain charm.

After a shower and change we headed off to explore, and like most guide books recommend, we headed straight for District I, the Castle District. This meant crossing the River Danube, which we did at The Széchenyl Chain Bridge, a bridge that was designed by an English engineer William Tierney Clark in 1839 and whose prototype is Marlow Bridge which spans the Thames at Marlow, England.

By now I was starting to understand the attraction of this city, we took the funicular railway up to Buda Castle which gives you fabulous views across the Danube to the Pest embankment. At the top we strolled around the Buda Castle, The Royal Palace and Matthias Church, explored the network of cobbled streets and every now and then were presented with yet another fabulous view across the Danube and beyond.

On our way back to our accommodation we were stopped by two women tourists asking directions to the Basilica, we explained that we had not been in Budapest that long ourselves. They seemed persistent, and wanted us to recommend a bar where they could get some Hungarian beer suggesting that we join them, by this time I was getting a little suspicious of their intentions. I asked where they came from, they both answered Transylvania, it was then that we both managed to formulate some excuses and make our escape - a little later we both agreed that when they mentioned Transylvania that we both immediately thought of vampires.

In the evening we decided to eat at a restaurant that was recommended by the girl at the reception at our rooms, we were not disappointed, the food was authentic Hungarian cuisine and further more we were entertained with live music, a medley of some of my favourite jazz standards sung by a local jazz singer who's voice reminded me very much of Sophie Milman - she was very, very good. A great way to finish off the day.

So this city has managed to win me over. It is completely different to Kraków, it is bigger and busier and has the feel of a large city, the locals seem less friendly than in Kraków although when I went out to get a coffee this morning at about 6:00 (Rob was still fast asleep) a woman who looked as if she had been out all night, dressed in high heels a short skirt and quite frankly far too much make up, asked me if I would like a blow job or sex or a massage - I of course declined! 

 

Overnight train from Kraków to Budapest

The train pulled out of Kraków right on time, our compartment was clean and adequate for the two of us in bunk beds, however it is possible to raise the top bunk and fold up a third bunk between, I reckon that that would have been a tad claustrophobic, however in the compartment next to ours three Argentinian girls were doing just that.

Breakfast wasn't up to much, a black coffee and a chocolate croissant but the biggest disappointment was, although leaving on time, we were 2.5 hours late arriving at Budapest. We are told due to the floods in Prague as halfway through the journey some carriages from Prague are attached to the train. The floods in Prague are a bit worrying and may prevent us from visiting later in the week.

We have checked into our hotel in Budapest, the room is spacious and clean. Having washed and brushed up and are now off to explore Budapest.

Sunday 2 June 2013 - Kraków

We checked out of the Elephant on the Moon hostel soon after breakfast and took a tram direct to Kraków Glówny Railway Station, storing our luggage in a locker as we had a full day ahead of us prior to leaving. 

From the Railway Station we headed, on foot towards the main square, Rynek Glówny. Our route was through the park and we found ourselves, quite by accident, amongst the children and dragons preparing for the start of the dragon procession which gave us a chance to see all the dragons up close. 

Before the procession started we managed to grab a table at a bar and ordered some coffees.  This was a great vantage point for watching the procession. Time slipped by and soon it was time to order some beers, this was followed by a spot of lunch and more beers. What a perfect start to any day, sitting in the warm sunshine watching the world go by in such a glorious spot.

Eventually we took a short stroll to Wawel Royal Castle which stands, impressively, on a hill overlooking a bend of the Vistula river. We spent several hours at this beautiful castle which dates back to the 16th century and I believe was built by Italians from Tuscany, the architect Bartolomeo Berrecci, was himself from Florence.

Walking back to the old town, we chose a different corner of  Rynek Glówny and selected a restaurant with some good comfy chairs, ordered more liquid refreshments and got back to watching the world go by.

Eventually we decided that another stroll around the old town was in order which set us up for dinner, this was at a burger bar which served us burgers that were streets ahead of any McDonald's or Burger King. After this we strolled thought the park towards the station and decided to have a look around the huge and very modern shopping mall right next to the station.

When we had finished our retail therapy, (can men actually get therapy from shopping?) we had about an hour to kill before we boarded the overnight train to Budapest. So we sat in a bar across the square from the station, and yes there was more beer.

Kraków architecturally is a beautiful city with soul, it is alive & vibrant, and ladies, if you get tired of the history, the sights or the cafe culture then there is the modern Galeria shopping mall by the station which boasts over a hundred stores set over 3 floors.

I strongly recommend everyone take a visit to Kraków, it truly is fabulous and I am sure that I shall return.

I would like to give a big thank you to our hosts, Magda, Monika 1 & Monika 2 at the Elephant on the Moon hostel, three beautiful young ladies who made us very welcome and were always very helpful. x

Also thanks to Lisa Neath for recommending a trip to Kraków.x

Sunday 2 June 2013 - Kraków, Poland to Budapest, Hungary

Later today we shall be saying goodbye to Kraków and our new found friends at the Elephant on the Moon, because tonight at 22:00 we board an overnight train to Budapest. 

Before that, we have the full day to explore more of this beautiful city and what is more it has stopped raining and the sun will be shining.

Saturday 1 June 2013 - Kraków

The weather forecast today was, unfortunately, accurate  and yes we did have rain and we did get wet but the day defiantly was not a damp squib.

The day started with continental breakfast at Elephant on the Moon hostel. After breakfast we took the tram into  Kraków and started the morning with a walk around Rynek Główny (the main square) this is a huge square and is the largest medieval town square in Europe. This was followed by brunch in the square but not until we had climbed the stairs to the top of the Town Hall Clock Tower. 

Next we decided to walk, in the rain, to the Jewish District which was en-route to Oskar Schindler's factory. After a while the rain got heavier and we had to take shelter in Kladka Cafe, very nice warm and cosy. After a few hours and several beers later the rain eased so we crossed the river Vistula and headed to Oskar Schindler's factory, we had decided to just view the factory from the outside and then visit the Human Body Expedition next door -  This unique exhibit is a display of over 100 authentic human specimens, including whole bodies, individual organs and transparent body slices preserved through a special process called plastination - interesting if not a bit macabre. 

Outside it was raining harder so we hitched a ride on an electric tour cart back to Kraków old town and then a tram back to our hostel. At the hostel Monica ordered Chinese takeaway to be delivered for Berry & Nissa (American guests) me (Rob had managed a kebab on the way back) and herself.

That evening Rob & I braved the rain again and took a train back into Kraków to watch the Malopolska Dragons Parade being held on a bend of the Vistula just by the Wawel Royal Castle. So like hundreds of others we sheltered from the rain under our newly purchased umbrellas and watched a fabulous light and sound spectacle of water curtains, lasers, fireworks, music and huge floating hovering dragons. This was definitely no damp squib.

Baggage Allowance

:-) Seems my scales are not too accurate, Robs bag was only 9.8kg, so he would have been fine with his bag as it was.  He's not too happy with me, hey ho he'll get over it. 

Holiday Inn Express Stansted - The night before - 30 May 2013

Checked in to the Holiday Inn Express for an early flight tomorrow morning. I met Rob at the hotel and decided it would be prudent to check the weight of his luggage, good job that I did as it was 10kg over the allowance, we checked the terms for extra baggage and Ryan Air charge £20 per kilo, that would be £200. Anyhow I got him organised and he took out most of his underwear and one pair of jeans (now stored in my car), that brought his bag down by the required 10kg, "heavy boxers"

I sold him the idea that it would be cheaper to buy some in Poland and dispose of as and when, saves on the laundry as well, I wonder if this has set the theme for the whole trip, lets see :-)